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Plus, the best scalp soothing treatments out there

I am a beauty director, and I have dandruff. It is mild but detectable. I have dark hair so I scrutinise my parting whenever I pass a mirror, and a visit to the hairdresser is always proceeded by a stringent pre-shampoo and a feeling of niggling agitation as the stylist parts my wet hair.

Somehow, a ‘dry’ scalp has always seemed less embarrassing to me, but dandruff has been diagnosed, and there is a difference. "Fine powdery flakes are usually caused by a dry scalp, whereas dandruff is characterised by larger flakes and oily roots, and is thought to be caused by the natural flora on our scalps," says the consultant dermatologist and hair specialist Dr Sharon Wong.

For such a common issue – affecting half of all adults – dandruff gets very little attention. No friend has ever asked my advice, despite my job. Historically, the narrative has been one of embarrassment and even shame: adverts showing women too self-conscious to wear black, or men supposedly rejected by their lovers.

But thankfully the dialogue has evolved – as have the pungent remedies that did little to enhance hair texture or delight the senses. Sisley’s Hair Rituel Soothing Anti-Dandruff Shampoo has been a game-changer for me, gently cleansing while feeling luxurious, and I regularly alternate between Rahua’s Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo, and The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, which I leave on for 10 minutes twice a week. With treatments like these, it is possible to tackle flakes without sacrificing shine, condition or caring for your colour.

"Like the skin on your face, your scalp can benefit from weekly intensive treatments like a targeted scalp mask to cleanse, moisturise or exfoliate," says Anabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist at the Philip Kingsley Clinic. "For instance, if you have a flaky or irritated scalp, it can be beneficial to use a soothing anti-microbial scalp mask once to twice a week."

Dr Sharon Wong recommends a twice-weekly exfoliator with salicylic acid. "Salicylic acid is excellent for breaking down dead skin cells and removing oil, but it’s anti-inflammatory and also has an anti-microbial effect."

"Think about caring for your scalp from the inside out," says Kingsley. "Certain supplements, such as those containing omega 3s and co-enzyme Q-10, have been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties and can be beneficial to those with a problematic scalp."

"Like other skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis, flakiness or irritation on the scalp can be related to the health of the gut," says Eve Kalinik, author and a nutritional therapist specialising in gut health. "This is due to a heightened inflammatory immune response that can be skewed if there are imbalances in the gut microbiome or a compromised gut barrier function. In addition, because the skin, including the scalp, is the second largest microbiome in/on the body there is often a mirroring of gut and skin microbiome health." She recommends a clinical researched probiotic such as Kalla, which may help to support a healthy and balanced microbiome.

If problems persist see a specialist to ensure that any scalp issues are correctly diagnosed. "Skin complaints such as acne or rosacea can also effect the scalp," says Wong. A dermatologist or trichologist will be able to better identify the problem and make recommendations.